Malaysia: Peninsula and Borneo - July 2006

Everyone is scared of sharks. It's silly. There is more danger for divers: the giant triggerfish, also called titan triggerfish.

The big day is here. Today, finally, I plunge to Sipadan. The site does not usurp its reputation. It's spectacular. Sharks and turtles galore. Fish everywhere. All along a vertiginous "wall" where the corals abound, which sinks into the blue.

The islands around Sipadan are unknown and yet they are worth seeing. I dive there almost every day until the end of the week, waiting for my turn to go to Sipadan.

I am finally arrived at Semporna, the gateway to Sipadan in Borneo, with my companions Helena and Paul, a couple from Guernsey.

Diving to Sipadan and the bottoms of nearby islands (Mabul, Kapalai, Sibuan), you have to travel to Semporna, the southeastern port of Malaysian territory in Borneo.

In Borneo, Malaysia, the Sepilok Orangutan Centre is trying to reintroduce these endangered great apes into the jungle. A short visit...

The plane lands in Sandakan. Here I am in Borneo! The airport is tiny. I quickly get my bag, buy a coupon at the taxi counter at the exit and go directly to Sepilok, a few kilometers away, where is the Orangutan rehabilitation center.

Johor Bahru is a borderless city without any charm. Its asset: to be the gateway to Malaysia, just in front of Singapore.

The coral-eating acanthaster starfish is called "crown of thorns" in English ... or COT. This Sunday, it's COT's party!

Last day of diving in Tioman, peninsular Malaysia side. A day dedicated to the dreaded acanthaster, coral starfish ...

The way to Tekek, on the island of Tioman, is punctuated by small houses, which range from the rickety hut to the dapper chalet. Cafés-restaurants-grocery stores sell bags of instant noodles, fishing line and laundry packs, serve plates of fried rice and coffee ...

The Tioman jungle in southeastern Peninsular Malaysia is a protected nature park. Dense, almost impenetrable, it covers most of the island.

Maz and Alex are a couple of English eco-lovers and diving enthusiasts, whom I had the pleasure to meet again in Tioman. They are on a humanitarian trip (18 months, 65,000 km and 26 countries) for the Care organization.

Nudibranchs are the sea cousins of land slugs. Their gills are exposed, naked, hence their name ...

At the approach of Tioman Island, I feel that the place will please me. It's big, huge! In the maritime haze of the early morning, a steep profile, covered with a dense and humid vegetation, arises, still clinging with shreds of clouds.

Night bus ride to Mersing without history, even if my neighbor has a tendency to overflow from his seat and spread over mine ...

I was wrong when I arrived in Perhentian Kecil (Malaysia) to underestimate the attraction and seductive power of this tiny island ...

I had a very nice dive expedition to Redang, about an hour and a half from the Perhentian boat. There, the visibility is exceptional and the three dives that we chained in real decors of postcards are a treat.

I take you under the surface, discover the underwater world of the Perhentian Islands, Peninsular Malaysia ...

Here I am at Perhentian Kecil, in the south of Peninsular Malaysia. I explore the island, rather touristy, but very friendly ...

I leave Kota Bahru, his stuffed women and his concrete for the Perhentian Islands. Perhentian Besar the Great, and Perhentian Kecil the Small, renowned for their crystal clear waters and coral reefs ...

Despite my not very favorable first impression of Kota Bahru (Malaysia), it's starting to please me. The city is ugly but the people are cool like anything.

The train that never arrives has finally arrived, the taxi drivers rushed to the handful of farangs who came down with their backpacks.

The famous night train finally arrived at Songai Kolok, at the border. Rather late, due to an obscure problem with the loco. It was the guy in charge of my carriage who informed me, as I was getting a little impatient this morning, at around 10:30 am, the supposed arrival time, in front of the endless string of stations, none of which was Songai Kolok.

Here I am, disembarked in Chumphon (pronounced "tcheumpone") by the Lomprayah, the catamaran boat that links up with the Thai peninsula. Next, a shuttle bus with luggage and passengers stacked on the back platform to the center, where I was dropped off with the others in front of an Internet café a few minutes' walk from the station.

I went back to take a look at Jansom Bay, on Koh Tao. A pretty little cove, which I liked, but which is already in the process of being transformed...

Should we say Malay or Malaysian? Both ! In fact, everything depends on the context, because the two terms do not have exactly the same meaning.

I've revised my Malaysia itinerary for July 2006. Choices have to be made... Here's a new map of my planned route.

Information found on Plongeur.com. Read the full description here on Wetpixel. To summarize, a barge loaded with construction materials destroyed a (fortunately limited) portion of the Sipadan reef...

I've got plenty of time to make plans at D-87... This will be mainly a "diving and lounging" trip. Hence my choice of stops: islands and beaches.

To kill time while waiting for the big departure, I test the posting of a blog. Takeoff Friday, June 23, 2006: J-89 ... It's not so far!